You're better off sticking with 9 or fewer rear sprockets. If you're a real fanatic, turn the chain over and do this again with it lying on its other side. If you wish to make a habit of cleaning your chain off-the-bike, the best approach is to buy a master link, such as the SRAM PowerLink -- available separately, but it also comes with new SRAM chains.
Always keep your chain properly tensioned, neither too tight nor too slack. If the upper run of chain mates well with the two sprockets, the lower run should have about 16 to 18 mm of side play. If you wish to make a habit of cleaning your chain off-the-bike, the best approach is to buy a master link, such as the SRAM PowerLink -- available separately, but it also comes with new SRAM chains.
This permits removal and re-installation of the chain without pressing out a link pin. The link pins of the PowerLink also give you an inside look at chain wear. Install a new chain and PowerLink at the same time, so the links are all the same length. The link pins must be of the same diameter as the others in the chain, and they aren't the same for every brand of chain. If too big, the link can't be installed, and if too small, the chain will clunk each time the link comes around, and may jump forward.
This results in annoying expense, and also the replacement link is shorter than the other links if they have worn, and can result in a noticeable "clunk" each time it comes around. You're better off sticking with 9 or fewer rear sprockets.
Wipperman makes a similar "Connex" link and. KMC also makes a similar product called the "Missing Link". Park Tool has a special tool for master links. You can also remove a PowerLink by placing the jaws of a needle-nose pliers diagonally across the link to press the side plates out of position.
You can use larger-jaw pliers if you form a "Z" of chain links with the PowerLink as the diagonal part. The link is shorter during installation or removal, and so this is impossible on a derailerless bicycle without loosening or removing the rear wheel.
Reader Chris Elson has suggested a cool improvised technique to remove one of these links using only an old piece of brake cable. Here is his description:. This method is extremely easy and can be done with your bare hands in a few seconds.
This can even be done roadside if a little length is kept on the end of the rear brake cable to thread through. Be sure to capture the two halves of the master link -- placing a shop rag over them helps. They do tend to fly away and get lost. Shimano chains 9-speed and up are reattachable only by inserting a special new link pin, using a special tool.
Both link pins are permanently attached to one side plate. The other side plate is held in place by a clip, as shown. The clip may be pried open with a flat-blade screwdriver. Sometimes there is no clip and the other side plate only snaps into place. It is installed or removed by bending the chain toward its side, pushing the ends of the link pins closer together. This type of master link can be removed from a derailerless bicycle without sliding the rear wheel forward. There are several ways that people try to clean their chains.
Only those which involve removing the chain from the bicycle are very satisfactory. The traditional way to clean a bicycle chain is to remove it from the bike, then soak it in a degreasing solvent. The best choice these days is a citrus-based solvent, which is less toxic, smelly and environmentally damaging than others. Professional-quality solvents are designed to be followed up with a water rinse to remove remaining dirt.
Any of these solvents, and more so if contaminated with chain grunge, are bad news if they get into the water supply. Improved sprocket design, such as Shimano's "Hyperglide", have made it possible to shift under full power, which is very stressful to chains. Older derailer systems with plain sprockets required the rider to ease up on the pedals while shifting. To withstand these high stresses, the link pins of modern chains are tighter fitting into the chain plates.
The new link pins are difficult to remove and reinstall without damaging either the link pin or the side plate. The thinner side plates of 9- and higher-speed chains worsen this problem. Using a master link, or using a cassette with 8 speeds or fewer, with a chain made for the same number of sprockets, avoids the problem -- John Allen. One part of the chain got twisted into a little loop inside the bottle, and I had to cut the mouth of the bottle open to get the chain out. I'm glad it was a plastic bottle!
Use a bottle with a mouth at least two inches across. Another major way to clean chains is with an on-the-bike cleaning machine. These are boxes which clip over the lower run of chain. They contain brushes and rollers that flex the chain and run it through a bath of solvent. The off-the-bike approach has the advantage that it usually uses more solvent than will fit into an on-the-bike cleaning machine.
Thus, it can dilute away more of the scuzz from the chain. Also the machine drips solvent all over the sprockets and chainrings, and besides, they probably also need cleaning, which is easier with the chain removed.
Park Tool makes a special brush to clean sprockets, with a toothed hook to extract grunge from between the sprockets. The on-the-bike system has the advantage that the cleaning machine flexes the links and spins the rollers.
This scrubbing action may do a better job of cleaning the innards. You could have a dummy drivetrain in your workshop where you install a chain for cleaning using the cleaning machine One expensive but effective procedure requires an ultrasonic cleaner, such as is often used for jewelry and calligraphic pens.
This has a pan where you put solvent and the chain. The ultrasonic vibration will shake dirt deposits loose. You could also boil the chain. It should preferably be a modern 4-unit chain, so liquids can easily flow through it.
Take it off the bicycle, and first clean it in solvent in one of the ways already described, to remove all visible surface dirt.
Then coil the chain into a pancake shape so it makes a single layer in the bottom of an old stainless steel or aluminum frying pan. Don't use a cast-iron skillet: A 6-inch pan is big enough for a typical chain.
Pour in a heavy concentration of dishwashing detergent in water, and boil the chain. Boiling will liquefy congealed lubricant and wash it out of the chain. If you're a real fanatic, turn the chain over and do this again with it lying on its other side. Spill the liquid out and repeat with clean rinse water. Spill that out and heat the chain in the bottom of the pan until the water boils out, so the chain doesn't rust. This is a smelly procedure and you probably want to do it on a hot plate outdoors rather than on your kitchen stove.
Now, if you had that special grease which chain manufacturers use, you could heat it up in a double boiler and it would liquefy and flow into the chain links -- same idea as when waxing the chain. It is completed with solid brass or chromed brass buckle and respectably matching Chicago screws. The outer layer is dyed while the inner layer has a clear finish. Finally, the edges are burnished and the belt is rubbed down, by hand, with Ray Holes Saddle Butter. If you IWB, please get sized accordingly.
Waistbands of worn pants tend to stretch. Dave — October 25, For many years the high price of gun belts kept me from buying a leather gun belt. I love my Wilderness belts but always wanted a less tactical leather gun belt. Photographed prototype versions of George Steele with painted on chest hair, as well as a Roddy Piper figure with a panther shirt are rumored to have actually been produced.
The packaging for the title belt featured pictures of unproduced large size "Wrestling Superstars Muscle Grip" action figures of Hulk Hogan and Randy Savage complete with title belts. There were also Canadian release "Value Packs" which contained a randomly assorted two-pack of figures generally taken from, but not limited to, the first three series of the line.
The final series of figures that were scheduled but never produced included: Photographs of the wrestlers appeared on the backs of the black Series 6 Superstars '89 cards and they were mentioned in various ads by a company called The Wrestling Ring contained in issues of Pro Wrestling Illustrated and their various publications, but photographs of the actual figures have never been seen.
Miss Elizabeth was also pictured on the back of the black cards as an available re release. To date there has not been any verifiable proof that it was released as one has yet to turn up in circulation. Slaughter figure was made by LJN. Slaughter had a contract dispute with then WWF over merchandising, and left the company. The figure was never released to stores and was instead purchased by Hasbro.
Hasbro then made the 8" Sarge figure available as a mail order tie-in with their G. Joe action figure line. Slaughter was shipped in a plastic bag which had a chemical reaction with the unpainted portions of the rubber. The result was green spots that plague most Slaughter figures. The first design of the figure was a re-molded body of Jimmy Snuka.
There were two prominent misspellings on the red stickers affixed to the figures' packaging. The original Sling 'Em-Fling 'Em Wrestling Ring was recalled on November 4, , due to 4 cases of children seriously injuring themselves falling on the corner ring posts. In one of those cases, a plastic ring post penetrated the child's body causing serious injury.
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